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1. Which is cheaper to build: trussed or a stick-built roof?

The simple answer is: it depends.

How difficult is the roof? Frequently, on some of the more elaborate and cut up roofs that seem to be enjoying a vouge currently, cannot be easily trussed and therefore should/must be stick-built.

On others it comes down to who is doing the work.

If we truss, then the work can be done by a framer at a cost of from $3.50 to $4.50 a square foot of living space. However, a stick-framed roof requires a much higher skill bringing us to carpenter level work and at this level you can expect to pay from $5.50 to $7.50 a square foot depending on the complexity.

Thirdly: if you, the owner, decide to do the work and are capable of the doing same then the least expensive way to go is to stick build.

Fourth, but not last, all things being equal it is always faster, two to three weeks sooner usually, to truss rather than stick build a roof.

2. Which is cheaper to build: a one or two story house?

The easy answer is a story and a half.

However, on the question asked, I always start the answer by telling the class that this becomes a philosophical question and has so many ramifications to it that you pick which side you wish to be on and I'll argue the other.

As an example of the pieces to the puzzle that must be answered let us assume we are designing a house of 2400 square feet: the two story will be 30x40 on each floor and the single story 40x60 on a single floor.

Obviously the single story has twice the foundation and twice the roof area as the two story house does. But if we compute the exterior wall area of the two homes we find approximately1800 sf of siding on the single story and 2,520 sf on the two story (to simplify the math I have ignored the gable ends which are about the same on both houses).

So now we need to know the cost of each item, foundation, roof, and siding, or at least an educated guess. My partner gave me these numbers: foundation 24" high @ $7.50 per lineal foot; comp roofing @ $110 per square; and hard-i-plank @ $1.75 per square foot.

Using these numbers we find that the two story foundation, roof and siding costs out at approximately $6,780, for the one story approximately $7,290, however, if we add in the cost of the stairway @ $400 the two story comes in at $7,180. Not much difference, folks.

Now the question of the story and a half, the advantage here is that we have the smaller foot print of the two story without all the added expense of the additional siding costs. You do, however, have the expense of the stairway and there are some additional costs since a story and a half typically have a steeper roof pitch (8/12 to 12/12) to gain as much space upstairs as possible.

3. I plan on building a home with a basement. Based on Oregon insulation requirements, what is the cheapest method?

In meeting Oregon's (or Washington's) energy code we have used three methods. They are: 1) a concrete wall with foam insulation on the exterior conc. wall; 2) a conc. wall with a standard 2x4 stud wall stepped 2" off the interior conc. wall with R-21 (OR) or R-19 (WA) batt insulation; 3) the use of foam block forms filled with concrete that give typically give an R value of around 22 depending on the specific foam block company.

OK, OK, which is the cheapest?

Well, if you are planning on sub-contracting the work out then it has been our experience that the conc. wall with the interior 2x4 wall is the cheapest. However, you do lose 6" of interior perimeter wall space.

If you are doing it yourself (which is a very difficult job, regardless what the sales folk tell you) the foam block is the way to go.

4. We are building a house with a basement, since we are planning not finish to this area until later it is a lot cheaper to build, right?

Quick answer is: yes.

The real answer depends on what you mean by "not finish this area" and what you mean by "a lot cheaper".

The answer to the first part depends on what level you are leaving the basement unfinished. For instance let's assume we are leaving the basement completely unfinished, i.e. no electrical, no wall insulation, and no drywall. This would be by far the cheapest way to leave the basement. The down side of this is two fold. One: because the basement is not, at this point, living space the ceiling of the basement must be insulated to R-25 (Oregon Code). Two: the installation of the electrical, insulation and drywall will cost more when they are done then it would have at construction.

When are students build with an unfinished basement as above they normally see this area coming in at $40 a sf as opposed to the 65 to 75 dollars per sf of above grade construction.

If you decide to go to drywall the costs do go up (now the basement will cost approximately $50 a sf) but it is still cheaper over the long haul.

5. I am planning to have my house plans done by a professional. Which is the best way to go: with an architect or a designer?

The answer is either or neither.

What you really want is someone that can design a home to what you want and (just as importantly) what you can afford.

The problem is that there are both architects and designers out there that can design you a home but because they are not also builders they haven't a clue as to the actual costs of the construction of your home.

Besides asking to see their work of your potential designer/architect, also ask for references for constructed work and talk to the owners if possible about costs.

Quite frankly, I have built homes off plans done by both architects and designers that were extremely poorly done, and, of course, the reverse is also true.

Also remember that typically an architect (5 to 7% of the estimated construction costs) is much more expensive that most designers that charge considerably less.